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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. However, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest shop securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.